Albam Clothing Fisherman’s Cagoule Jackets

The Search continues...

Now that the weather is on the turn my search for a coat continues, with my mind made upon the rare and fine thing that is Albam's Clothing's, Fisherman jacket.

Initially released in 2007, the cagoule is constructed from silicone-proofed cotton, has a detachable hood, a rather cool rear pocket and distinctive large buttons. It came in a range of colours, including Yellow, Orange, Navy, Teal and Beige, and a Navy/White check version? The rarity is due to Albam's limited production runs, so 'when it's gone, it's gone' - this also leads to the fact that these jackets now sell for more used that they did when new! I think they were £140.00 new...

An indication of the jackets 'legendary status' is that they have been much copied over the last couple of years, namely by Top Man and French Connection, however you can't beat the real thing. Now, Albam do re-issue from time to time, however in their most recent one the jacket sold out in hours!

Having spent the last eight weeks working alongside copywriter Jim Pyett who just so happens to own the 'one to have' original Apple Green version, I was convinced and therefore my search steps up a pace. Jim acquired his on ebay (bargain/lucky £60), which happens to be the best place to find one of these. I happened to be watching a Burnt Orange version pre-Christmas that sold for £160.00 - I want one but possibly not that much!

The jacket was also featured in issue 4 of online style magazine, Umbrella. Which happens to be well worth checking out.
http://www.umbrellamagazine.co.uk/

Ebay watch:
Jan 2012   Red (sz2) below £155
Jan 2012   Beige (sz2)  £112
Jan 2012   Green (sz3)  £134
Jan 2012   Orange (sz2) £124

Alvar Aalto: In the Master's Home

The Next Generation of Finish Designers Infiltrate the Icon's Helsinki Abode

Nice feature on nowness.com who invited Finland’s top contemporary design talent to showcase their work in the home of the country’s greatest most celebrated aesthete, Alvar Aalto.

http://www.nowness.com/day/2011/9/9/1622/alvar-aalto-in-the-masters-home

The Modern Touch

Julius Shulman: Visual Acoustics 

I know that I've mentioned 'Visual Acoustics' previously, however this is a lovely little piece of film taken from the documentary. Photographer Julius Shulman was largely responsible for introducing architectural modernism to the people of California. His images not only brought new work to light in the 50s and 60s, but intuitively communicated the unique optimism and rigor of the international style. Shulman died in June this year at the age of 98, but not before taking part in the filming of Visual Acoustics, a documentary about his work and practices. In this clip of the film Shulman revisits the site of his most famous photograph, a shot of Pierre Koenig’s Case Study House #22 from 1960.

Watch here: nowness.com

Fine things: North Sea Clothing

North Sea Clothing from The Garbstore

Check out this great bit of kit from North Sea Clothing, the Carbine Lanyard. Lets be honest is a key ring, but the quality is stunning, made from vegetable tanned navy blue English bridle leather with marine grade 316 stainless steel bow shackle and carbine hook. The Carbine lanyard is traditionally cut, hand stitched and finished.

North Sea Clothing accessories are all bench made by artisanal craftsmen in England. The products are all hand stitched (no sewing machine used) involving the use of two needles and linen thread treated with natural beeswax. The work is then held in a clam (a wooden handheld saddler's vice) while the stitching is done. This is a highly skilled job, carried out by a single craftsman. This type of stitching is stronger and more flexible than machine stitching. All the edges of the work are hand creased (this is the decorative tooled line at the edge of the leather) using a heated handheld tool. Edges are then stained and burnished, by hand, to finish.

Available from The Couverture & The Garbstore

couvertureandthegarbstore.com

NORTH SEA CLOTHING

The Expedition

North Sea Clothing also offer outstanding knitwear garments of beauty as well as functionality - hence their motto, 'Whatever the weather'. I love the heritage of naval issue garments, for example the 'Submariner' - this sweater was War Office issue to the Royal Navy in both world wars. 
Made in England with British wool, and amazing value for money.


northseaclothing.co.uk

EAMES: The Architect and The Painter

Film


The husband-and-wife team of Charles and Ray Eames are widely regarded as America’s most important designers. Perhaps best remembered for their mid-century plywood and fiberglass furniture, the Eames Office also created a mind-bending variety of other products, from splints for wounded military during World War II, to photography, interiors, multi-media exhibits, graphics, games, films and toys. But their personal lives and influence on significant events in American life – from the development of modernism, to the rise of the computer age – has been less widely understood. Narrated by James Franco, Eames: The Architect and the Painter is the first film dedicated to these creative geniuses and their work.


OPENS NOVEMBER 18th AT THE IFC CENTER IN NEW YORK CITY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=_YMzmuBBBzo

Midcentury Modern at Dulwich

20th November 2011 - Dulwich College

I joined the hoards of midcentury furniture and design devotees at the Midcentury Modern Design Fair yesterday. As the interest in this period continues to grow as does the number of visitors to this great event and with a collection of over 80 dealers there was much to satisfy the appetite across all six rooms.

With something for all, in terms of budget; a 1970's Eames Lounge Chair drew my attention with around a £5K price tag and at the opposite end of the scale so did a lovely little Danish teak magazine rack with natural sling for £45 - which was a bit more suited to my pocket. Nests of tables appeared to be flying out the door, possibly mirroring the amount of value that these beautifully designed period pieces present.

Above; Nice little Danish stacking table, one of a pair on offer for £60 each or £100 the two.
Below; I thought this great looking sideboard an absolute treat with its black and white drawers and doors contrasting beautifully against the teak carcase and stand. Obviously so did someone else as it was sold very early on in the day.

Above; One of the many great Danish leather sofas on sale, £949.00

Look out for the next fair in March 2012 by visiting www.modernshows.com/

Herman Miller

Poster

I've always been a great admirer of the graphic design used in Herman Miller's advertising. Clean and simple, virtues that remain all important in design aesthetics, together with imaginative layouts that captured the period along with Miller's classic red and black branding.

 
The office for Client X...the overworked executive.

Visual Acoustics Film

The Modernism of Julius Shulman

A Documentary Film by Eric Bricker

This has got to be worth watching. Narrated by Dustin Hoffman, 'Visual Acoustics' celebrates the life and career of Julius Shulman, the world's greatest architectural photographer, whose images brought modern architecture to the American mainstream.

Shulman, captured the work of nearly every modern and progressive architect since the 1930's including Frank Lloyd Wright, Neutra, and Lautner, who I mentioned in my previous post. His images epitomised the singular beauty of Southern California's modernist movement and brought its iconic structures to life.

Case Study House 22

For Sale. The Schaffer Residence

A Single Man

One of my favourite movies of the last couple of years is Tom Ford's directorial debut, the super stylish, A Single Man starring Colin Firth. Set in 1962 Los Angeles, the attention to detail and sophistication throughout the film is stunning, whether it's the Mercedes 220S or the sheer perfection of Firth's character George Falconer's clothes drawers. However, of some interest to all Modernists at the moment is the fact that George's beautiful apartment is on the market. Originally designed by architect John Lautner in 1949 for the Schaffer family in the Verdugo Mountains, Glendale, California the property is presented for sale through realtors Mossler, Deasy & Doe for a super cool $1,495,000.

http://www.crosbydoe.com/address/11/John-Lautner-Architect

Charles Eames 1st Edition at Just In Modern

Charles Eames 670/671 Lounge & Ottoman

Wow, California based store 'Just In Modern' never ceases to amaze with their finds, admittedly they're in the right place to source the very best in Mid-Century stock, however this time they've outdone themselves with this beauty! A Rare (1956) 1st year production Eames Lounge and Ottoman. Resplendent in stunning Brazilian rosewood, with soft down filled black leather cushions. This particular model was only made for the first year of production and has the 3 screw holes under the arm rest together with 'slip on' boot guides for the Ottoman.

 

For a constant supply of stunning items keep an eye on their site.

http://justinmodern.blogspot.com/

Fine things: Lancia Stratos

1970's Super Car Classic

It all began in 1970, at the Turin exhibition stand of the automobile designer, Bertone. The Stratos HF (High Fidelity) may have followed the 1970s super car 'wedge' aesthetic yet in my mind it is a stylistic masterpiece, mainly due to its distinctive crescent-shaped-wrap-around windscreen. Manufactured by Lancia and designed by Marcello Gandini, the car was the stuff of dreams for a car mad 10 year old in 1977.

Throughout the 1970s and early 1980s the car gained legendary status as one of the most spectacular and successful rally cars of the period. In fact it was the world’s first purposely designed rally car, with a tiny cabin (drivers worn a Stratos rather than drove it), lightweight (790kg) and with an incredibly short wheel-base that enabled it to change direction with a flick of the steering wheel.

The Top Trump playing card that started the obsession.

Fine things: BMW 3.0 CSL

1970's Super Car Classic

Another super car from my top five cars of all time, the Bavarian beauty, aka the 'Batmobile'. Introduced in May 1972, the E9 3.0CSL was a homologation special built to make the car eligible for racing in the European Touring Car Championships. The "L" in the designation meant "leicht" (light), unlike in other BMW designations, where it meant "lang" (long). The lightness was achieved by using thinner steel to build the unit body, deleting the trim and soundproofing, using aluminium alloy doors, bonnets, and boot lids, and using Perspex side windows. The five hundred 3.0CSLs exported to the UK were not quite as light as the others, as the importer had insisted on retaining the soundproofing, electric windows, and stock E9 bumpers on these cars.

The full aero package that the racing CSLs carried earn the car the 'Batmobile' nickname - due to it's resemblance to Bat Man's own super car. 

An interesting development emerged along with the 3.0CSL; the BMW 'Art Car' Project. This concept was introduced by the French racecar driver and auctioneer Herve Poulain, who wanted to invite an artist to create a canvas on an automobile. It was in 1975, when Poulain commissioned American artist and friend Alexander Calder to paint the first in the series.

Fine things: Maserati Khamsin

1970's Super Car Classic

One of a series of 70's super car classics that I dreamt about when I was a kid growing up with a car obsession courtesy of numerous sets of Top Trumps cards and 'The Observer's Book of Automobiles', was the truly stunning Maserati Khamsin.

Named after a hot, violent wind in the Egyptian desert the Khamsin was introduced as a Bertone prototype in 1972 at the Turin Auto Show. In 1973 it was put on display at the Paris Motor Show where it was badged as a Maserati. Production of the vehicle started in 1974. The car had a front mounted 4.9 litre V8 engine delivering 320 hp, however this was pushed as far back as possible to create space for a spare wheel. Also, how futuristic is that rear view too! Production of the Khamsin ended in 1982, with only 430 vehicles produced of which 155 were sold in the United States.

The Maserati Khamsin remains to this day easily in my Top 5 cars I'd love to own.

20th Edition of The Observer's Book of Automobiles. Dated 1976–77, p.120

Furniture: Nice site

Great furniture store in Osaka, Japan


Truck Furniture

Chairs: Manchester School of Art

MMU Degree Show 2011

Busy times at the opening night of MMU's student show last week, traditionally mobbed, however this year the numbers appeared even greater than usual - and the amassed family, friends, industry professionals and interested observers weren't to be disappointed, with the Three Dimensional Design Show providing the high spot, attracting significant interest throughout the evening.

A pair of designers in particular stood out for me due to two pieces of beautiful furniture. Li-En Yeung and Tom Vousden.

Li-En Yeung

Li-En Yeung's ash framed Occasional chair with walnut veneered seat portrayed a beautifully considered attention to form and function. With a slight nod towards an Eames aesthetic the piece, below, displays some lovely curves with a definite deftness of touch in it's crafting - in particular the slender tapering legs.

For more images together with Li-En Yeung's details can be found at the link below.


Li-En Yeung
______________________


Tom Vousden

From the minute you entered the packed 3D design exhibition space it was readily apparent that there was something special on show to the immediate left. The reason for the commotion; a stunning retro inspired desk by designer Tom Vousden. Created using laminating and veneering techniques the design which offers a nod towards Herman Miller, is constructed in plywood and MDF with a walnut veneer. The sensual curved sides are created using laminated flexiply, and finished off linoleum for the desk top work surface. Overall the contrast between the two woods is no less striking than the sensitivity of the designs flowing lines.

Herman Miller - Airia Desk

Fine things: Tenbosch House

1960s Scandinavian Style in Brussels

Just discovered this newly opened B&B in Brussels' posh Ixelles district, Tenbosch House offers lots of inspiration for lovers of Scandinavian design. Owners Cedric Meuris and Bernard Devaux hired architect Patrice Lemeret to transform two nineteenth-century houses into one open, airy hotel, while designers Michel Penneman and Catharina Eklof chose 1960s Scandinavian furniture to maintain a super stylish look throughout. Among the classic 60s furniture, are Hans Wegner chairs, Nisse Strinning shelves, and Poul Henningsen lighting.


Brussels, now on my list of cities to visit...


Tenbosch House

Fine things: Great Illustration

http://www.plan59.com/images/JPGs/stow57exec.jpg

Fine things: Filson 'Black Label'

 

Filson 891SS Italia Historic Shirt 

The latest purchase from Oi Polloi, and by far the best shirt I've seen currently available. Ok, it's yet another Chambray, however I think you can still get away with 'double denim' if you can look a bit messy with it. Filson's hunting shirt is based on the original design submitted by CC Filson March 3, 1914. The detail is nice, with four functional pockets closed by flaps and beautifully signed buttons, a curved hem with frayed side seam insert and a three button throat tab. Made in Italy and as homage to this carries their black label - a real wardrobe staple.

Furniture: Robert Heritage Sideboard

'Hamilton' Sideboard supplied by Heal's c.1960

When it comes to furniture this is my prize possession, not only is it by an English designer in Robert Heritage and manufactured by Archie Shine Ltd. UK, it is also supplied by Heal's. This is not all, it is documented in the 2000 TASCHEN GmbH book, Decorative Art 60's, pp 208 which gives the piece a certain significance.

The sideboard itself is recognisable as Heritage due to his signature 'reeding' on the drawer fronts, it is formed in three separate sections, that I can testify to being thankful for, having moved this piece around various residences. The three sections sit on top of a very long 274cm wide base with lovely tapering legs. The sideboard was part of a dining suite, designed in 1956 that also consisted of eight chairs and a draw leaf dining table.

Robert Heritage was born in Birmingham and studied at the RCA from 1948 to 1952. In 1953 he immediately set up his own studio designing furniture and lighting winning numerous awards, including a Design Centre Award in 1958 for this 'Hamilton' sideboard. Possibly his most prestigous commission was to carry out the furniture design project for the Queen Elizabeth II ocean liner in 1968 together with Ernest Race. Robert Heritage is the most awarded designer by the Design Council.

Harry Bertoia's 'Diamond chair'

Another gem from Manchester's Art Gallery design collection

I've always admired Harry Bertoia's, Diamond chair due to the complexity of the lattice work construction, yet the chair retains a beautifully fluidity and lightness in its aesthetic. As Bertoia put it, "If you look at these chairs, they are mainly made of air, like sculpture. Space passes right through them."

They were produced with varying degrees of upholstery over their light grid-work, and they were handmade because a suitable mass production process could not be found. Unfortunately, the chair edge utilized two thin wires welded on either side of the mesh seat. This design had been granted a patent to the Eames for the wire chair produced by Herman Miller.

Herman Miller eventually won and Bertoia & Knoll redesigned the seat edge, using a thicker, single wire, and grinding down the edge of the seat wires at a smooth angle - the same way the chairs are produced today. Nonetheless, the commercial success enjoyed by Bertoia's diamond chair was immediate.

Chairs: Oi Polloi, Manchester

Chairs you wish you owned

I've been spending a considerable amount of time and money in Oi Polloi since moving to Manchester around three years ago. The shop which is an institution for the 'Man about Town' is situated in the heart of Manchester's Northern Quarter and offers a wealth of casual clothing to its dedicated patrons who are still obsessed with clothing 'one-upmanship'.

I first visited the shop when it was situated on Tib Street and much smaller than it is now in its new location on Thomas Street. There was a basement in the shops early days which provided haircuts, however this had made way for more rail space and changing rooms. It wasn't just a nice pair of Clarks Desert Boots that caught my eye back then it was also a great pair of retro chairs that were used when trying on the shoes.

Every time I subsequently descended the tricky stairs into the shops basement I would admire the two chairs that look 1970's in style, with their bent chromed tubular steel frame, teak armrests, with one piece leather-upholstered cushion. Now, only one made the move to Thomas Street last year, its mate didn't! What a shame, not just that they are no longer a pair but that a chair that I'd love to own and maybe could have has disappeared, probably into a skip...